The Helm: Pattern

So who remembers this hat from last winter? Well, I do, and oddly enough, a few people lately have asked for the pattern, so I finally got my act together, and here you go! Please note, this pattern (including the charts) has not been reviewed or test-knit by anyone else, so there might be errors. Let me know if you have any questions, or find any mistakes in it!



THE HELM!

Yarn: Mission Falls 1824 Wool, two colours. I used a red and beige, but any colours with contrasting values would work fabulously. (I may have used Russet [010] and oatmeal [006]). I needed about a ball and a half of each. Any Aran weight yarn knit at the appropriate gauge would render a similar effect, a worsted weight at standard gauge would give a less dense hat, but that might be just what you’re after!

Gauge: I knit this to be very warm, so it is knit to a gauge of 20 sts/10cm (26 rows/10cm), as opposed to the 18 sts/10cm suggested by the yarn.

Needles: Set of double points, or a suitable circular, as is your preference (I used 4.00mm bamboo double points)

Size: to fit an average adult head. Hat measures approximately 21” in circumference. The best way to alter sizing would be to use a different weight of yarn, or to alter your gauge. Since the charts have varying stitch counts, some would not line up if you chose to simply remove/add repeats to change the size (at least, not if you wanted to use the same charts I have here).

Pattern

I see this pattern as being in three parts: the double-thick brim, the body and the crown shaping.

Brim: The brim is only worked over 90% of the total body stitches, to reduce bulk. You could work the brim in something delectably soft or warm, or in a finer gauge to reduce the bulk. If you do use a lighter yarn for the inner brim, you may be able to simply cast on 120sts right away. A provisional cast on is not strictly necessary, but I find that it makes a nice finished product.

Using a provisional cast on of your choosing (I like this tutorial, from See Eunny Knit. I use the method whereby you crochet a chain onto your needle http://www.eunnyjang.com/knit/2006/03/majoring_in_lace_part_iv.html ), cast on 108 stitches.

Knit 13 rounds in CC. (If you wanted to add a name, initials, date, whatever, these 13 rows on the inner brim are the perfect spot)

Next round, [k8, kfb], 120 sts. (feel free to use whichever increase method you prefer, just be sure that you are increasing after every 9th stitch, adding a total of 12 stitches)

Purl one round. This purl round allows the fabric to fold cleanly and makes a very clean bottom edge to the hat.

Body: The body is worked over 120 stitches. If you prefer a longer hat, you could add additional rounds in MC in between the charts, or add your own chart(s)! Just be sure that their stitch count(s) are factors of 120.

Knit 3 rounds in CC.
Knit chart A.

Knit 2 rounds in CC.

Knit chart B.

Unzip/unpick provisional cast-on and place stitches on spare needle. Knit one round in MC, knitting both sets of stitches (those that you just loosed from the cast on, and those from the body) together. Every 10th stitch, only knit the stitch off the body needle, as you only have 98 stitches on the cast on needle, but 120 on the body needle.

Knit 1 round in MC.

Knit chart C.

Knit 1 round MC.

Knit chart D.

Knit 1 round MC.

Knit chart E.

Knit 2 rounds MC.

Knit chart F.

Knit 1 round MC.

Knit chart G.

Knit 1 round MC.

Crown shaping: This shaping produces a fairly gradually sloped top, but mostly, I love the pattern that the decreases form.

Work Crown Shaping chart.

Repeat last two rounds of Crown Shaping chart ([k2tog], [knit all]) until fewer than 8 stitches remain (I lost my original notes, I don’t recall my first numbers). Draw yarn through remaining stitches, pull tight, fasten end inside of hat. Tadahh!

Charts